observations on gear, adventure, and the world

climbing stoke

So a week or two ago a took a quick work trip to Moab (yeah no one believes me that it was a work trip). Between meetings RR and I got in some time on the Big Bend Boulders. This was exciting because I was there back in October when I was just getting back into climbing and now I got to get back on the same problems again. Felt strong and had a real blast on some beautiful face climbing on just-tall-enough boulders.

Only photo from the trip. Tent by the Colorado.

Then last week The Girl was in Provo for her sister’s birthday so I met up with “Little A” my sister and the latest zoob she’s wrapped around her finger. Turns out this kid’s a really strong climber and a RIOT. I did a few burns on three 12a routes and while bouldering hasn’t done too many favors to my endurance, I was happy to find that the moves weren’t out of the question. I’m confidant that with a couple sessions to figure out the beta I could send all three. Very exciting.

So I was inspired to start working on some V4/5’s at the Front, along with two minor steps up in my training for the rock.

I’ve been good about getting in about two sessions at the gym per week but I want to step it up a bit.

BD athlete James Kassay bouldering in Hueco Tanks, Texas from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

3 1 hour boulder sessions, with time on the system board, in the cave and on at least one V4/5 project per week and cave time cave time.

2 Hangboard sessions (same days as above)

3 Morning Yoga sessions

3 Core/Pushup/Pullup Sessions

I’ll have to work that out a little better so it makes more sense.

I’m also going to try to get in one trail run per week as a break from the bike.

Further on the topic of training for climbing Dave MacLeod has a great post on his latest project and how he’s gone about training for it.

Q: Who’s Dave MacLeod?

A: Press Play –>


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