observations on gear, adventure, and the world

Belay Jackets and Warming Up

Even though those topics sound related they aren’t really.

Dane from Cold Thistle has put together a rather exhaustive post on the belay jacket for alpine climbing.

He argues that synthetics are the way to go, and I’ll agree for the use case he’s talking about. But for a winter trip to the desert I’m going to say that down is better. Your pack is already pretty full right? And maybe you’re a bit warm on the walk to the wall, but then you want all the warmth you can get while you’re chilling between burns.

Since we’re already talking about climbing and staying warm, it makes sense to talk about climbing and getting warm.

The power company climbing blog, one of the better training resources out there has a great piece on warming up to send your project (route). This makes me curious about warm ups for bouldering. Sometimes, specifically when I’ve worked a problem to the point that I just need to come back fresh and send it, I’ve been surprised that after about three problems of increasing difficulty I’m ready to send. This may only work for me because I ride my bike about 20 minutes to get to the gym and do lots of hand and arm warm-up exercises between burns.

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2 responses

  1. Hey thanks for the link. I use down these days a lot more than synthetics out side the wet winter climbing gig. Wet being the operative word. If you can keep down dry, there is nothing better for insulation or more comfortable to wear. Nice work on your blog!

    January 22, 2013 at 8:11 pm

    • I’m right with you on that! I was really happy to have my Ama Dablam down from Marmot during this last storm cycle. The Avy situation was pretty complicated with all the storm snow on Utah facets so we were braving the cold on the lifts at Alta and needed every cc of down I had!

      January 22, 2013 at 8:58 pm

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